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Numerical Simulation of Wave Transformation Across the Surf Zone Over a Steep Bottom

[+] Author Affiliations
Tai-Wen Hsu, Ta-Yuan Lin, Hwung-Hweng Hwung

National Cheng Kung University, Tainan, Taiwan

Yaron Toledo

Haifa University, Haifa, Israel

Aron Roland

University of Technology, Darmstadt, Hessen, Germany

Paper No. OMAE2010-20974, pp. 559-564; 6 pages
  • ASME 2010 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering
  • 29th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering: Volume 4
  • Shanghai, China, June 6–11, 2010
  • Conference Sponsors: Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering Division
  • ISBN: 978-0-7918-4912-5 | eISBN: 978-0-7918-3873-0
  • Copyright © 2010 by ASME


The combined effect of shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a sloping bottom was investigated. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE) which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The evolution equation of the MSE is implemented in the numerical solution which provides an efficient scheme for describing wave transformation in a large coastal area. The model validity is verified by comparison to accurate numerical models, laboratory experiments and analytical solutions of waves travelling over a steep sloping beach.

Copyright © 2010 by ASME



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